Red sands of Wadi Rum

On Wednesday, we started our desert adventure with a sundown sojourn to Wadi Rum, Jordan's famous desert where Lawrence of Arabia once roamed the red sands. I'm hoping my students remember that "wadi" means valley, and I'm wondering if the moon has a wadi or two similar to this.

We cruised along the Desert Highway from Amman, passing "camel crossing" signs as donkeys grazed on the roadside. Moonscape views featured tannish-red rocks whipped into a sandstone cake batter. A pyramid-shaped rock towering to the north of us prompted someone in our group to ask if it was man-made or real. "All of this is real," came the reply, and our van grew silent as we took in the wonder.

Once in Wadi Rum, we hired a pickup truck driver to bounce us along the sands for a sunset view. His son, about 7 or 8 years old, shyly grinned at us from the passenger seat. If Sedona, Arizona's rocks are the small grandchild, Wadi Rum's easily take the role of grand-daddy. Our group scrambled up a small bluff to watch sundown.

Later, we enjoyed an outdoor barbecue dinner under the stars. Our van driver stopped in the middle of the desert to let us stand outside, heads craned upwards to gaze at the night sky. Now I understand the phrase "blanket of stars." I even spotted the Big Dipper outside the window on the late-night drive to Aqaba.

Ministry is complete...

We visited the Ministry today. It was a posh experience, not too disimilar from visiting with Dr. Bergeson. Minister Toucan is a forward thinking man, who I would really respect at the helm of my education system. Jordan is at the beginning of some additional educational reform, much like all of us, as we try to prepare of a future that is completely unknown to us. I wish them luck and hope that if they find any magic keys to success, our connection with this country via this program will help us to export some of the ideas. And vice versa, should we find the key first.

While at the Ministry I got to see two of my new favorite Jordanians, Mohammed from the Ministry who greeted us that first day at the airport and King Abdullah II. I have come to look forward to how he, the King, will be featured in pictures as there are many different versions posted everywhere!!!

We also visited JEI, which is the Jordanian Education Initiative, which is a link between private and public sectors with education as the focal point. It would be an excellent connect with the JET Fellowship. And I LOOOOOOOVE hearing Mimi talk of wanting to bring us, the original ten, together again in the future for other projects. Maybe Spain next?

Take Me to the River!

With temps soaring to about 115 degrees, we viewed the cracked, parched remains of a river bed where John the Baptist is said to have baptised Jesus. The remaining Jordan River is a green, brackish line of water with the border of the West Bank literally a stone's throw away. While we dunked our hands in the river on one side, a barbed military fence bordered the river's west bank. Israel and the Palestinian territories lay behind the fence.

Wow doesn't even begin to explain today!

OMG... Today has to have been one of the most amazing days of my life. First we went to the Jordan River. This is where Jesus was baptised by John. It was really hot out so we walked fast, or at least tried to, took a lot of pictures, and then were on our way to the Dead Sea.

The Dead Sea was so amazing. I had read about it, but what I thought it would be like was no where near what it was actually like. It is the lowest place on earth so at first my ears kept popping, but once I saw the Dead Sea, all my worries seemed to have disappeared. It was SO beautiful and amazing. When I had heard that you could float in the Dead Sea because it has such high salinity I pictured it being so thick with salt that I could hardly walk in it. That was so not the case. Granted it does have very high salt content, 30%, which is over six times greater than the ocean, but when you are looking at it and walking in it it seems just like any regular ocean. BUT.... when you go to sit down you actually float. I was able to lay back with my arms and legs totally extended and just float there. I could roll over on my side and just keep rolling in place. I could stand straight up, with my feet not touching the sand and not treading water, and not sink at all. It was like nothing I had ever experienced. It is hard to explain the feelings we were all having today. I still can't believe I was actually IN the Dead Sea floating. It felt like I was in a warm bath full of oil. My skin felt very smooth and soft. The water was very warm, but outside the water it was about 115 degrees. HOT!!!

After we floated for a while we all went and got mud baths. We were pretty much covered from head to toe in mud straight out of the Dead Sea. We were supposed to keep it on and let it dry in the direct sunlight for at least 30 minutes. Well after being in the sun already for a few hours, and the fact that it was way over 100 degrees out, we didn't last that long. It was well worth it though and quite comical.

We ended this amazing day with one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen. With each new day that I am here I seem to be learning more and more, and with each day I am experiencing things that I never thought I would. I am so happy to be here and I can't wait for the adventures we are going to have this next week. We are going to start visiting our new Jordanian families' homes and schools. I am very much looking forward to this.

Where to start?

So, it's about 9:30 am and I am getting ready to start another adventure. Actually we are getting ready, but this blog is about me, so we'll focus on that. ;) Before I add another day of adventure to my memory banks, I need to unload some of the last couple days first!

When I last left off, I wasn't feeling so well. I have pulled through and am being proactive about possible set-backs physically, so as not to lose my footing again. The discomfort was due mostly to adjusting to this area of the world, and now I feel like I have been here for years!

Anyway, back to the adventure. Jerash was the next stop on our agenda. We were sidetracked for several hours as we waited for an interview that is supposed to be published in tomorrow's paper. By the time we took care of that and ate, our 12:00 Jerash start time looked more like 3! But that was okay. We had gotten passed the harsh midday heat and were heading into the nighttime cooling.

I didn't really know what to expect. Roman ruins in Jordan...counterintuative if you ask me. But then to learn that six of the ten dekopolis cities are housed in Jordan, it makes much more sense. We had a guide talk us through the ruins. He spent a great deal of time telling us, "yalla, yalla please," which essentially means let's go. Oh and "look, look" as he stopped us every three steps for a group photo op. Definitely the stuff memories are made of.

Again, lots of beautiful faces to add extra pizazz to the already awe-inspiring surroundings. We checked out the moving column, visited both entrances and amphitheatres, as well as stood on the corner of Syria, Palestine, Iraq...well the former Roman roads that used to lead to those places anyway.

After a series of snags in the morning, I was beside myself as we got the VIP treatment by the event coordinator of the Jerash Festival. We were given a backstage entrance into the North Amphitheatre and some top notch seats for the big concert that evening. He was an Iraqi singer that is very well loved. I had already been introduced to his music numerous times, but didn't even know it. So we totally rocked out, so to speak, that night with a packed house. People from all over the Middle East showed up for the event. From infants to the very old, people clapped, chanted, sang, and just brought a whole new life to the centuries old amphitheatre.

We dragged ourselves home and to bed. Bed coming at around 4:00 am because we had to go back to King's Academy by way of the airport to pick up Mimi. It is a universal feeling by all that we are glad Mimi has made it. She's like a mother to our blended family!

Despite the late night, our morning didn't start nearly as late as my body wanted it to. And today it was off to Madaba...'cept it was Friday, the holy day. Most shops were closed. That didn't stop us from finding shopping opportunities though. And let me tell you, if you speak Arabic you have such a one up on the rest of us, because you can totally haggle your way into a great deal. But you also have to have a good financial perspective to know if the prices are extravagant anyway, since in most cases the prices have seemed reasonable to me, until Maha and Abeer advise me otherwise. Suddenly I am saving 15-30 dinar, like it's a liquidation sale!

As a break to our shopping spree we decided to have a holy day too, and visted Mount Nebo. It's crazy to think I stood where Moses stood. Today, looking out to the Promised Land, looks pretty bleak, but based on the stories of how green and flourshing the valley used to be, I can imagine how amazing it was.

We finished up our day at Mecca Mall. Truly a mecca because I saw all kinds of people there. Very separated, mind you, men with men, women with women, but it was packed!! Espirit was back in full effect, they had an ice cream place called, "Whatchamacallit," and I could even get some Popeye's Chicken. It's like five floors and you could seriously get lost. I mean for days. I foresee many return trips to Mecca. :)

Well, it's shower time. Today we are off to see where Jesus was baptised and then have our own Jordanian baptism in the Dead Sea!

Wow...that is all I can say!

Well the past two days have definitely made up for the two before those. I was not feeling well for a few days, but slept in this morning and then woke up feeling great.

Last night we went to the ancient city of Jerash which is where there are many columns and Roman Ruins. It is one of the largest and most well preserved sites of Roman architecture in the world, outside of Italy I guess. It was just amazing. After a tour and many pictures we went into the South Theatre which is this huge place that can seat thousands of people to watch a concert put on by Kathem Saher who is an Iraqi performer. We were extremely lucky to be there at this time because the Jerash Festival was going on and it is only there for three weeks. Despite us getting there three hours before the show we were still crammed by people, but the show was so worth it. For the first hour or so I was freezing and couldn't say awake, but then I got my second wind and was thoroughly enjoying it. There was a lot of dancing going on in our group. There was one lady that Kevin met that flew in just for the concert from France. I guess he is very well known and popular. (So, of course today I had to go buy one of his Cd's. Not that I will know what he is saying, but it was still great music to listen to.) One thing that was so amazing to me was that the audience was full of people at all different ages. I was surprised to see such a wide age range there. We even saw a guy that was wearing a Dimmitt Athletic shirt like the ones our junior high kids wear. When I went to ask him about it he had no idea what I was saying. It finally came out that he got the shirt from his uncle that lives in the US, but he doesn't think it was from Washington. It's such a small world that you just never know.

It was a very long night, but even despite how tired we were we all went to the airport to pick up Mini, our UW coordinator. She got sick the night before we left so she was unable to come until last night. We have missed her and are all so happy she is here to experience this amazing adventure with us.

Today was another fantastic day. We all got to sleep in, which was much needed after our late night. After lunch we went bargain shopping and then to Mt. Nebo. Being that we were in a tourist shop they were all about trying to sell us things, BUT at a higher price than Maha, Abeer, and Hanan. It was pretty funny. So, we outsmarted them and would give one of them our stuff to go ask for prices and they were always lower, so they would buy them for us. It was pretty funny. We all definitely learned not to shop without them. Although Kevin did pretty well on his own. The prices would even change from one person to another. One guy told us that these neat mosaic coasters were two for $20 and get a third one free. So, of course that was a good deal and Marvice bought some. But, then when another one of us asked a different guy they were all of a sudden 3 for $75. Yeah right!!! Then the two guys discussed it and I guess they are more expensive than he charged Marvice and the other guy joked that he would now be losing his salary for the next two years since we were all now buying some... We made out of there with a lot of good finds!

Mt. Nebo was another fascinating place with such a story to tell. I think I need to refresh up on the Bible when I get home though to learn more about these places. Mt. Nebo is where Moses is said to have seen the Promised Land. Later when he died he was buried somewhere up there. Of course we had a group picture taken at his memorial site. We have group pictures taken everywhere. The Moses Memorial Church is full of beautiful mosaics. Some have really been preserved well. There was a great view of the Dead Sea from up there.

After Mt. Nebo we went to a the Holy Land gift shop. It was full of some amazing things. There was a lot of products from the Dead Sea. Between the 8 of us we pretty much bought out the whole store. I was excited to buy some things, especially for my friends. I wasn't really concerned about how I was getting it all home because most of it was small, but what I noticed when I lifted the bag of goodies I bought, was that I didn't consider the weight. Today was really the first day I shopped and I think I already put my suitcase over its weight limit... Great!!!

Finally we were on our way to the Mecca Mall. Oh my gosh!!! I was HUGE. I think it was 4 or 5 stories. We had dinner there, pizza from Sabaro's, and then walked around for a while. This was the first meal that I had that didn't involve pita bread and humic. We were not there long enough so we will have to go back when we can spend more time. It was amazing to me to see such a crowded mall when we were leaving at 10:30 at night. Everyone here seems to be night owls.

There is so much history here in Jordan that it makes Seattle feel boring. Even though when we say that to our Jordanian friends they disagree because they loved being in Seattle. I guess they are both great places each in their own unique ways.

Well I had better get to be because tomorrow is going to be another amazing day when we go float in the salt water at the Dead Sea!

Mahsalamieh,

Michelle

Roman Roamin' in Jerash

Roaming the rut-filled roads of Roman ruins Thursday in Jerash, I had to keep reminding myself that yes, Tina, you are actually walking the streets and gazing at the temples of an ancient civilization. This tour had a Middle Eastern flair, with our photo-happy guide urging, "yell-eh, please!" to hurry us along.

Ruins by day, music by night. Our delegation was welcomed backstage by the director of the Jerash Music Festival, where just two weeks ago Ozomatli played on the stage. We walked onto the stage in the South Theater, the actual ancient Roman theater where the modern festival now takes place. Then, our hosts ushered us into the VIP section! We sat on stone steps, just like the Romans did, for more than three hours to wait for the 9:30 show. The crowd, featuring several flag-waving Iraqi young men and families, entertained itself with songs and animated shouts. After my friend Abeer and I admired the infant belonging to the Iraqi family in front of us, the baby's mother passed the child to me. The U.S. may be at war with Iraq, but this family allowed me to cradle their youngest member in my arms. I don't think I'll forget that image/feeling.

At 9:30, renowned Iraqi performer Kadim Al Sahir took the stage, flanked by stringed instruments, a saxophone, electric guitarist, keyboardist, and 6 male and female background singers who sang erect and expressionless. Kadim Al Sahir took the microphone and entertained the crowd with sweeping ballads and rhythmic music for 2 1/2 hours. I smiled at a woman clad in black from head to toe, with only her eyes showing. Her eyes smiled back at me, crinkling at the corners, and later in the night, she borrowed my binoculars.

Imagine sitting in an ancient outdoor theater, with views of the Roman temples dotting the night sky, as you smile with strangers around you and clap so much to the songs that your hands ache.

Brief Recap

Well, we've been here a few days and things are still going well, but we have hit a few snags. The first day we were here, we were supposed to do Madaba, but it didn't happen. Still haven't been there, actually. The jetlag hit hard on Sunday and tired did not even begin to describe how I felt. I wanted to be mobile and seeing things, but instead we were holed up inside. We ate lovely lunch, but we still wanted to leave and see things.

It was close to mutiny, but we refrained. Monday proved to be much better. We began the day by meeting a senator and then spent some time with the mayor of Amman. Both were interesting men, with fun stories to share. Went to lunch in Amman, included were french fries (which were a welcomed addition as I was already starting to miss American food). We came back to the Academy for a brief rest before we began our evening activities.

After our rest and the opportunity to change into less formal clothes, we went back into Amman. First we hit the Souk.Traveling up and down the tight rows of vegetables and assorted grain. The traffic not even slowing down for pedestrians, so you take your life into your own hands when trying to cross. It was loud and cramped, but a great experience just the same.
From there we went to the Roman Amphitheatre. It was closed, so we could not go inside, but we did get pretty close. On our way there, we found a man selling old money...Iraqi Dinars with Sadam's face on it. That was amusing to see.

We went up to the Citadel next. We took pictures in Hercules' Gate. Watched the sunset over Amman and got a bird's eye view of the Amphitheatre. From up there you can also see the largest flag pole in the world, with Jordan's flag proudly flying atop it.

Then it was off to Al-Hussein National Park for a reinactment of a traditional Jordanian wedding. That was so much fun!! All the dancing was a joy to watch. I even got pulled from the audience to come dance in the middle, twice! Again, many gorgeous faces to look at and lots of fun to be had!

Yesterday was enjoyable as well. We went to visit the University of Jordan. We met with the vice-president of the college, and he was so amusing. Admist the very formal business setting, e had us laughing with his wit and jokes. We ate a traditional lunch (too much food!), and fortunately I did a good job of pacing myself since I knew ahead of time how many course we would have to negotiate.

We hit the market again, and ended up at Maxim Mall. But physically, it seems, I have hit my wall. I don't feel so well. I am not sure what to do to fix it. I came home and crashed last night, I was out from 7 pm, getting up a couple of times to use the bathroom and finally to change into my pjs.

This morning we have decided to take it easy. We are planning to see some of Madaba this afternoon and have dinner with the mayor of Amman's wife. I hope to feel better soon.

I am having a great time so far, but the climate, food, and time change has really taken a toll as of late. Until next time...

Amazing Monday

Today, we met with Jordanian Senator Aquil Bitalji, chairman of Jordan's Tourism and Heritage Committee, and enjoyed a separate visit with the mayor of Amman. I'm realizing again and again the power of education, and it's invigorating to realize that people clear across the world are committed on a daily basis to effecting positive change for young people. I feel so honored to be a part of this, and so honored to be a teacher. Here, I've had a chance to feel valued, respected, and admired for my passion for teaching.

I realized a dream yesterday and today, standing atop Amman's Citadel as the Muslim call to prayer echoed around the white-clad city. Behind me stood the Corinthian pillars of the Temple of Hercules, and below that, the remains of a Roman amphitheater. All of this cast in hues of pink as the sunk below the horizon.

I boogied with a sword-waving Bedouin performer at King Abdullah Hussein Park during a re-enactment of a traditional Jordanian wedding, complete with bagpipes, drums, and six whirling men in Bedouin attire. After the show, we were invited to their goat-skin tent, where a visiting camp of 8- to 12-year-old Jordanian students peppered me with questions (in Arabic) about where I live, what I teach, how old I am, etc. It started when I pointed to a boy's flip-flops, and said the word in ARabic. He and his friends thought I knew the language! A chatty girl translated for me, and later offered me her schwarma and strawberry juice box.And the last piece of my missing luggage was waiting for me at King's Academy when we returned for the night. Life is good.

In the Trenches
Photos would help, but until I can post them, my words will have to suffice. Our day began with breakfast at King's Academy with Saleh, our host from the Ministry of Education. Saleh just returned from a 20-day conference in China where officials from developing nations strategized on how to use education as a means to improve the economies of those countries. In plain English, education for these countries isn't merely for the joy of learning. It's for an improved way of life.Heading to our first official visit of the day, we watched as a Honda in front of us suddenly spun off the highway onto a lower embankment! Our driver pulled over, as did another car, and Saleh, Kevin, and Vivek joined a roadside crew of Jordanian men to help the frazzled woman. She was so nervous, she started to put the car in reverse when Vivek and Kevin jumped behind it to push her. Luckily, she switched gears and the group managed to push her out of the ditch. Teachers are always saying we're "in the trenches." This gave new meaning to the phrase.

What an amazing first two days!

Well.... I have arrived in Jordan and already our first two days have been full of bumps and adventures. Jordan is so beautiful. The weather has been warm, but definitely bearable with a breeze that helps. Today we met with the Senator.

After spending an hour or so with the Senator we went and has a quick meeting with the Mayor. Both men were very nice and provided us with a lot of interesting facts and information. Everyone we have met has been so welcoming, especially Geda's mom and her neighbors! :)

We went to a market today that was very crowded and full of interesting things.

I didn't buy anything yet. I decided I should wait and see more first. Then we went back to Citadel and watched the sunset. It was so pretty.

After that we went to one of King Abdullah's huge parks to watch a mock traditional wedding. It was really neat. The portion of the park where it was being held has been turned into a summer camp for kids 8-12 year olds. We learned a little about the camp and it was very amazing what they are doing there.

Now I am very tired and should get to bed. I haven't really been sleeping much. We have been staying up until at least 1am talking, well last night it was waiting for our luggage and then unpacking since it never made it on our flight, so by the time I get to bed it is around 2 and I have been waking up at 6am. I think it is catching up to me.

Tomorrow is going to be another fun day full of new adventures so I will write more later!

So back in Seattle!

Well I am reading your first impressions and reflections with awe AND of course envy!!
Looks like you all are handling this 'new' experience quite well and managing all the curb balls sent your way.
MABROUK!
Today is seafair in Seattle with the Blue Angels riding high and loud but very impressive. The crowds on Lake Washington remind me of Maha's Ant colony and so far are behaving well.

Ditto!

So, Vivek's account is very true, but I have to put in my first impressions. The flight was very long, but smooth, with little discomfort. I couldn't sleep that well, so naturally delirium was beginning to set in upon arrival. The first thing I wanted to do when we got off the plane was use a bathroom. For some reason I thought that would be better than crawling over people to get to the airplane bathroom while enroute. So, I found the bathroom and was confronted by a toilet that I didn't know how to use. Apparently popular in Asia, the sink hole action with a place for me to put my feet and stand was too much for me to negotiate. I was prepared to hold it, but a regular toilet was available next door, shukran Allah!

The visa action was a little arduous, but we made it through and things smoothed out, except for the lack of luggage thing. Hopefully our bags will arrive to us tonight, because I really want to be able to change clothes. There is just too much heat and sweat action for me not to want that! :)

And Vivek so lightly explained how they sent a guy in with his cell phone looking for me. Now let's flip to my reality. I am sitting in baggage claim, unable to find my bags. I have slept off and on very uncomfortably on a plane for the last 12+ hours. A man I have never seen before in my life comes up to me and says, "Are you Marvice?" and hands me a cell phone. Let's just say my curiosity was at an all time peak as to who was going to be on the other side of the line. Fortunately it was Sana'a's voice and we were all able to hook up.

Despite the lack of luggage, the arrival and initial thoughts of the area are all good. I already love it here. The King's Academy is lovely. An oasis in the desert, no doubt. It's the first green I have seen. But then, we haven't even had time to go anywhere yet.

It is true, what they say about the hospitality here though. So far everyone has been very kind. And though everyone doesn't speak English (and they shouldn't since their national language is Arabic), they are very patient and helpful with the English. The only Arabic I have down so far is thanks and hi. But it seems all it takes is a smile and the only thing left to say is thanks (shukran), because they are doing everything for you.

Needless to say, my first impressions are just awe and excitement. I can't believe I am really here. I also can't believe the adventure that I have been afforded in this amazing opportunity!

Teachers arrive in Jordan!

Hey there,
We arrived safely in Amman last night. I flew in from Dubai and arrived around the same time as Michelle, Marvice, Kevin, and Tina. After picking up my bags and going through customs (which was absolutely easy with no questions asked) I was met by Sana'a and her husband Fahim! It was great to see a familiar face.

Next we went over to the other terminal and waited for the othere teachers. After waiting for over an hour we got a little concerned when they didn't appear. A police friend of Fahim's went in with a cell phone and found Marvice. It turns out their luggage didn't make it onto the flight from Chicago due to the short transfer time between flights. I was also surprised to learn that Mimi didn't make it due to illness but hopefully will be joining us in a few days. Thankfully Geda is here to take care of things.

We enjoyed a great meal in Amman last night sitting in an outdoor cafe and we also made a run to the store to pick up some basic supplies. The Kings Academy is beautiful and we have been made to feel welcome and well taken care of.

Cheers,
Vivek

Safe Arrival in Amman

Glad you all arrived safely in Amman! I'm so sorry I couldn't make it on that flight, but will catch up with you soon!
Specifically on Friday. Keep us posted as to how it is going!!


Check these Press releases out!

http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/local/325999_teachers02.html

http://www.ltgov.wa.gov/PressCoverage/newsreleases/jordan08032007.htm

Time is ticking away quickly...

There are a ton of things I know I am supposed to be doing. Scratch that, could be doing, but I am adding another post to this blog. That's the excitement that I feel. I am packed of sorts and I am exhausted from running around so long. But I know I will have plenty of time to catch up on that looooooooooonnnnnng flight from Chicago to Amman. Anyway, we're at hours away now. I hope my American counterparts are as excited and ready to leave as I am, though I can't imagine that they aren't. Here we go!!!

So close I can taste it....

We had our meeting today, we were down a couple colleagues (Vivek, you lucky duck in Dubai already!). But it was the "finalizing" meeting. The one where we were told that Petra is on. The Dead Sea, definitely happening. We found out that the King's Academy will be our home the whole time, though we will likely have an overnight stay here or there as we make our way further south on our Jordan tour.



Dignitaries that we are to meet are set (for the most part) and the question about an audience with the Queen is out there. Just how many seminars we are to hold in Jordan has been laid out, along with how long the talks are to be.

Most of my pre-trip shopping is done and everything is flung all over my bed. Packing still necessary, but I am on the edge.

That's right, it's time to go. Just one more full day until the urgency, excitement, anticipation, and overall WAIT is over. Jordan is so close I can taste it. And it tastes good.

Preparing For Our Trip to Jordan

Today we are all meeting to discuss the final logistics and planning for our trip. We all look forward to Amman by Saturday!
mimi