Roaming the rut-filled roads of Roman ruins Thursday in Jerash, I had to keep reminding myself that yes, Tina, you are actually walking the streets and gazing at the temples of an ancient civilization. This tour had a Middle Eastern flair, with our photo-happy guide urging, "yell-eh, please!" to hurry us along.
Ruins by day, music by night. Our delegation was welcomed backstage by the director of the Jerash Music Festival, where just two weeks ago Ozomatli played on the stage. We walked onto the stage in the South Theater, the actual ancient Roman theater where the modern festival now takes place. Then, our hosts ushered us into the VIP section! We sat on stone steps, just like the Romans did, for more than three hours to wait for the 9:30 show. The crowd, featuring several flag-waving Iraqi young men and families, entertained itself with songs and animated shouts. After my friend Abeer and I admired the infant belonging to the Iraqi family in front of us, the baby's mother passed the child to me. The U.S. may be at war with Iraq, but this family allowed me to cradle their youngest member in my arms. I don't think I'll forget that image/feeling.
At 9:30, renowned Iraqi performer Kadim Al Sahir took the stage, flanked by stringed instruments, a saxophone, electric guitarist, keyboardist, and 6 male and female background singers who sang erect and expressionless. Kadim Al Sahir took the microphone and entertained the crowd with sweeping ballads and rhythmic music for 2 1/2 hours. I smiled at a woman clad in black from head to toe, with only her eyes showing. Her eyes smiled back at me, crinkling at the corners, and later in the night, she borrowed my binoculars.
Imagine sitting in an ancient outdoor theater, with views of the Roman temples dotting the night sky, as you smile with strangers around you and clap so much to the songs that your hands ache.
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